Gardening News

This plant, in some of its varieties, is probably the most popular ornament of the parlor. The ease of culture, its beautiful foliage, its rapid growth, and evergreen character all combine to make it a favorite.

The soil should be a rich loam; the richer the soil the more rapid will be the growth. Yet avoid stimulating manures. Slips root readily, taken off at any leaf joint, and placed either in earth or water; in the latter they will soon throw out roots, and may then be transferred to pots.

The only precaution to be taken in growing ivy is to keep it from frost while in growth and if frozen, to keep the sun away from it, thawing it out with cold water from whatever garden water feature (http://www.garden-fountains.com/Detail.bok?no=2922) you possess. In summer the plants may be set out of doors, and will make vigorous growth.

There are many species, of which the most common is Hedera Helix, the common twining ivy, a native of Europe, of which there are many varieties. The leaves of these varieties vary quite a bit and many distinctions have been founded on these variations.

There are two very beautiful kinds, the silver and golden, the foliage being beautifully variegated with white and gold. The Tree or Aborescent Ivy is merely a form of the common variety, which is shown by its returning to the primal Aborescent form not infrequently. The leaves are entire, and the plant often, retains its form for years.

H. Roegneriana is a variety with large, heart-shaped leaves, which is much esteemed.

H. digitata, the palmate or hand-shaped Ivy is a pretty variety, of rapid growth; the leaves are small, dark, and veined. This is often called, erroneously, the Irish Ivy.

H. Canariensis is the Irish, or Giant Ivy, the leaves are five-lobed, and larger than those of the common ivy. This type of ivy may not be best for areas where patio statuary (http://www.garden-fountains.com/Detail.bok?no=3416) is on display since it can grow quite large and overshadow the statues.

Almost all the varieties of nurserymen’s’ catalogs are merely forms of these, with peculiar foliage.

The Golden Ivy is a splendid plant; when the young

leaves come out it resembles a mass of yellow flowers. Ivies are grown in hanging baskets, around windows, made to trail around picture frames and looking glasses; indeed, they may be made decorative in the highest degree.

The plants should always be well supplied with water, though it should never be allowed to stand at the roots. Large plants of the common varieties may be procured inexpensively. The ornamental foliaged varieties are somewhat pricier.

If you have ivy growing out of doors (and it will thrive if you keep the winter’s sun away from it), a pretty effect may be produced by cutting large branches, and keeping them in vases or outdoor fountains of rain water. They will grow well all winter, and planted in spring make nice plants for autumn.

The plant commonly known as German Ivy is not an ivy; the botanical name is Senecio Scandens. It is deservedly popular, from its rapid growth and its freedom from insects. The Coliseum Ivy is a species of Snap-dragon, as may be seen from an examination of the flowers, and a very pretty plant it is; botanically it is Linaria Cymbalaria.

Five-leaved Ivy is the Virginia Creeper or Woodbine (Ampelopsis Virginica), a native of our woods. The Poison Ivy is Rhus Radicans or Rhus Toxicodendron, and not of the same family as any of the above.Sarah Martin is a freelance marketing writer based out of San Diego, CA. She specializes in landscaping, gardening, and the placement and collection of outdoor fountains. For a wide variety of patio statuary, please visit http://www.garden-fountains.com/.

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Gardening News

It’s quite amazing how the appeal of the blue dendrobium orchid is increasing at such a fast rate. Then again, perhaps it’s not so remarkable. It forms gorgeous and long-lasting flowers in bright tones of blue and is a striking addition to any floral arrangement. It’s also a favorite of many orchid gardeners, and it is interesting to note that this good-looking blossom is becoming a very fashionable house plant as well.

The blue dendrobium has a rich history. It is indigenous to the Philippines where it flourishes as a natural species. It’s somewhat similar in appearance to specific moths that flit all around in the wilderness of that country. However a transformation has happened in the blue dendrobium that is being sold in recent years compared to the traditional plants that grow in the wild. The present-day variety is a cross that’s in fact a great deal more vivid in coloring than its long-established ancestor.

The blue dendrobium orchid is in fact quite rare and there are a few sorts that are even threatened. This is largely because their indigenous environs have been destroyed. However you can cultivate this striking orchid in your own home providing you have purpose, perseverance and the proper information concerning how to raise these flowers.

When it comes to growing the blue dendrobium orchid, you need to be certain to abide by one easy principle. The hotter it is, the more water you must provide it; and the cooler the temperature, the less watering is required. This may seem apparent; but the reality is that you must change your watering schedule based on the time of year. During the summertime you’ll need to water these plants about every five days, or less, but in wintertime you can wait up to 12 days in between waterings.

Of course, if you don’t have the time or patience to cultivate the blue dendrobium orchid you can always shop for them from countless florists, both online and off. You can get just-cut blue dendrobiums in a range of hues. They make a magnificent complement to a wedding bouquet, and in addition are a very eye-catching centerpiece for the wedding reception, or even as a delightful flower arrangement for your home.

Gardening Gardening

The tools required for a modest gardening operation are surprisingly few. They should be of good quality however, if you want to save time, trouble and labor. Needless to repeat they should be cared for and kept conveniently arranged in the tool area or garden shed or in whatever manner your ingenuity contrives.

A good strong yet light spade is a “muse” and so is a good strong spading fork. One that has four fiat steel prongs will prove satisfactory. A hoe is needed for making hills, for chopping out weeds and for making seed drills. And a rake. Well, you just have to get a rake. Buy a good one. You and it are going to get real chummy. Then there is the garden line. Purchase a strong one and attach it onto two pointed stakes. It’s not necessary to spend money on some new-fangled fancy gadget. All you will be concerned about is making straight lines, and this will be your guide.

Measuring rods are used for marking out the distances between rows. They can be made at home. Use strips of wood 6 to 8 feet long, 1-1/2 inches wide and 1/2 inch thick. Paint the strips white and mark them carefully at intervals of one foot, indicating also the 1/2 foot and 1/4 foot marks. You should have two at least but you might as well make three or four when you are at it. A wheelbarrow is a labor saving necessity. Don’t kid yourself. You’ll need one even in a small garden.

Now there are ways of getting around it, but who wants to, so you will need a watering can and you certainly will require a length of hose just like watering an orchid. Without a trowel you will be lost, so buy a good strong one. Just in case you are now a bit worried that the listing of garden implements like watering plant is becoming somewhat more than expected, be assured that you are nearing its completion.

For the lawn you will require a lawn mower. You will need a really good knife, a hand-sprayer, a five-tooth cultivator and a couple of pails.

A drill marker you can make yourself. Cut a V-shaped notch in the end of a five-foot wooden stake that measures about 1-1/2 inches thick. The drill marker is used for making shallow drills for seed sowing. For setting bulbs into the soil and for transplanting young plants a home made dibble or dibber will do nicely.

An old spade or fork handle sharpened to a blunt point is quite good enough. It should be about 15 inches long. Whilst other tools could be mentioned here, it is hardly necessary as those now suggested are principal requirements. Be kind to them and they will last longer. Keep them clean and when not in use, wipe over all metal parts with an oily rag to prevent rust.

Gardening Gardening

A garden encyclopedia is as essential to the home gardener as a cook book is to a cook, and as useful. This is especially true in this do-it-yourself age, when skilled professional advice and help is hard to come by and costly.

Without a source of reliable information at hand, the amateur gardener is likely to make serious and costly mistakes. Valuable trees, shrubs, evergreens, lawns and other landscape plantings may be damaged beyond repair as a result of errors of omission as well as commission. House plants, patio plants and greenhouse plants fail to prosper unless they receive care based on sound knowledge. Scientific and practical know-how are necessary to grow fine fruits, vegetables, herbs and flowers. The only successful gardeners are informed gardeners.

And upon what a wide range of subjects the modern gardener needs information! He (or she) must be familiar with the names (either common or scientific) of the plants in the garden as well as of at least some of those not at the moment there, but which tempt one in nurseries, garden centers and online catalogs.

Gardeners need to know the peculiarities, characteristics and cultural needs of their plants - trees, shrubs, evergreens, vines, ground covers, fruits, perennials, annuals, lawn grasses and others. They must understand soils and their management, the art of maintaining fertility and a desirable soil acidity and alkalinity. When to water and when not to water, and how to prepare soil mixes for plants that are to be grown indoors, also fall within the scope of knowledge needed by the gardener.

Raising plants from seeds, and all the many other ways of increasing them (such as cuttings, leaf cuttings, layering, air layering, grafting and budding) are fascinating procedures, but they are only successful when undertaken with reliable knowledge. These are basic skills that can be put to profitable use by all amateur gardeners.

Such arts as pruning, staking and tying, mulching, winter-protection, air layering and the management of greenhouses, hot beds and cold frames demand specialized knowledge. To plan and carry out successful warfare against those three chief enemies of the gardener - weeds, pests, and diseases - demands accurate knowledge and understanding.

That is where a good garden encyclopedia and reference website is an especially valuable work because it was written and edited by experts for amateurs. The horticulturists who produced it are thoroughly familiar with the problems and needs of beginner gardeners. In clear language they tell just what every home gardener needs to know in order to plan, develop and maintain a successful garden. An important feature of this encyclopedia is the large number of visuals of plants, gardens; landscape plans, pests and diseases and of how-to-do-it, step-by-step gardening procedures. These illustrations supplement and complement a very clear, easy-to-understand text.

Gardening Gardening

There are many native trees and shrubs to the state of Tennessee. One of the native trees and shrubs is the Silky Dogwood. It grows best at the water’s edge in full and partial sun and can be anywhere from three to eight feet in height. Birds and small mammals are attracted to it. It blooms in the spring and in early summer, it has attractive white flowers with blue flowers in the late summer. The winter produces reddish stems. It has the ability to root from cuttings and is often used in shoreline and stream bank restoration projects.

Another of the native trees and shrubs is the Fragrant Sumac. It requires a dry, upland site for planting and full sun. It grows from eight to twenty feet in height. It is a thicket-forming shrub and is a good plant for controlling erosion on road cuts and other sloping areas with poor dry soils. It blooms in the spring and has yellow flowers and red fruits that remain on the plant during the winter. In the fall, it produces beautiful red foliage.

A third of the native trees and shrubs is the PawPaw. It grows on a moist upland site near the water’s edge in partial and full sun. It can grow in height from right to twenty feet. It blooms in the spring and produces the largest edible fruit of any plant native to America, eaten by raccoons and other small mammals. As such, it was cultivated by native American tribes for food. In the fall, it flower becomes yellow in color.

A tree that is one of the native trees and shrubs is the American Beech. It grows on moist upland sites with a shallow root system in partial and full sun. It blooms in the spring and can to over 50 feet in height. It has a golden bronze color in the fall and makes a good nest for small mammals and birds. It produces edible nuts that are eaten by turkeys and other wildlife.

Finally, a tree that is one of the native trees and shrubs is the Sugar Maple. It can grow on moist to dry upland sites in full sun, partial sun and full shade. It maximum height reaches over 50 feet. It is also called the hard or rock maple and its sap is the principle source of maple syrup. Its fall colors are brilliant yellow and orange.

Below is some nice native plant species:

SHADBUSH OR SERVICEBERRY (Amelanchier canadensis)

Height: 6′-20′, Spread: 10′. Erect stems, often clumped. Blends well on the edge of woodland or shrub border with evergreen background. Important berry producer during the early summer months. Fruit eaten by bluebirds, cardinals, and tanagers. Foliage is used by browsers.

RED CHOKEBERRY (Aronia arbutifolia)

Height: 6′-10′, Spread: 3′-5′. Upright multistemmed shrub, somewhat open and rounded. Adaptable to many soil types . Full sun to half shade. Used in border and mass plantings. Fruit eaten by grouse, chickadees and other songbirds.

SWEET PEPPERBUSH (Clethra alnifolia)

Height: 3′-8′, Spread: 4′-6′. Oval, round topped, erect, dense leafy shrub. Transplant into moist, organic soils. Full sun or shade. Excellent for summer flower, shrub border. Good plant for wet areas and heavy shade. Limited wildlife value.

RED-OSIER DOGWOOD (Cornus sericea)

Height: 7′-9′, Spread: 10′. Loose, broad spreading, rounded multistemmed shrub. Spreads freely. Adaptable to a wide range of soil conditions. Does well in moist soil. Excellent for mass plantings in large areas. Effective bank cover to hold soils. Cuttings are easily established in early spring: simply prune the new growth, dip the cut end in a rooting hormone, such as ROOTONE, and push cut end into the ground. These shrubs establish themselves readily, and are a valuable wildlife food. High wildlife value for fruit and browse. Used by a wide variety of mammals and songbirds, including cardinals, evening grosbeaks, robins, thrush, vireos and cedar waxwing.

INKBERRY (Ilex glabra)

Height: 6′-8′, Spread: 8′-10′. Upright multibranched, rounded shrub. Prefers moist, acid soils. Excellent for foundations, hedges, mass plantings and as accent plant. Berries used by a wide variety of wildlife. “Compacta” cultivar is a dwarf variety and is more readily available.

WINTERBERRY (Ilex verticillata)

Height: 6′-10′, Spread: same. Oval, rounded, deciduous shrub holly. Tends to form multistemmed clumps. Does well in light and heavy soils. Prefers moist, organic soils. Excellent for mass plantings and shrub borders. Red fruit is beautiful in winter. A male plant is necessary for fertilization. Used extensively by many songbirds, particularly thrushes, mockingbirds, robins, bluebirds, and thrashers.

VIRGINIA SWEETSPIRE (Itea virginica)

Height: 3′-5′, Spread: 6′-8′. Erect shrub with clustered branches. Prefers moist, fertile soils. Full sun or shade. Suited for wet areas. Excellent fall color. Fruit capsules are used by some songbirds.http://www.tennesseewholealenursery.com a wholesale plant nursery specializing in native plants and trees.

Gardening Articles

When planting Peonies plant as soon as they are obtained, being careful to set the division so that the top of the buds will be from 1-1/2 to two inches below the final soil grade after the plants are watered and have finished settling. If planted too deep you will probably get pretty foliage with a few or no blooms, and if too shallow, the buds will be exposed and are likely to get broken off by Old Shep when he serves notice on a stray cat or rabbit.

You should expect blooms from three to five eye divisions the first season. Only seven of the 60 varieties I planted in my garden a few years ago failed to bloom the first year. The plants made a splendid display of flowers the third season after planting.

Digging and dividing large, old peony clumps is no easy task, as most gardeners have learned. If the freshly-dug clump is left exposed to the air for a while, the roots will become less brittle and are more easily handled without breaking. The soil which is tightly held by the roots is best removed with a stream of water from the hose.

Do not simply cut the clump in half and plant the two peonies without removing any of the old large roots. Such divisions depend upon the old roots for nourishment and seldom bloom. The clump should be cut into smaller divisions, usually with from three to five eyes, some of the older roots removed and the others shortened to about six inches. This method stimulates the production of new roots which increases the plant’s vigor and productiveness. A stout butcher knife and a hammer are good division tools. Established plants may be fertilized in early spring with a handful of balanced plant food applied in a ring around each plant and stirred into the soil.

To Preserve Color

Most peony flowers fade in sunlight and if left to open and stand in the sun they lose much of their delicate beauty. If you wish to use peonies for display in a flower show or as a bouquet in the home, cut the flowers and let them open in the dark or at least in partial shade. Do not cut stems so long that all of the leaves are taken with the stalk. This would tend to weaken the plant.

Peonies which are properly planted and maintained are seldom bothered by diseases. The foliage is hardly ever attacked by insect pests. Plants should be carefully watched and if any disease occurs the affected parts should be removed and destroyed.

Root knot, leaf spot and botrytis blight are the three most common ailments. Root knot can be avoided by planting clean, healthy divisions in disease-free soil. New plants should not be set in an old bed where root knot has occurred. If the plants are properly spaced, very little damage is done by leaf spot.

Botrytis blight is likely to be the most serious peony disease and sometimes in orchid plants. It affects stems, buds and leaves just like in caring for orchid plants. Young stalks in early spring suddenly wilt and fall over, and young buds turn black and dry up. Later on, larger buds which become infected turn brown and fail to open up. For control, remove and destroy all infected parts as soon as they appear. Cut off all tops near the crowns in the fall and burn. If severe infestation has occurred before, remove the upper two inches of soil around the plants and replace with fresh disease-free soil.

Also as a preventive measure in the spring, spray the young shoots as soon as they appear, with Bordeaux mixture 2-2-50 or a copper fungicide mixture. Two or three successive sprays should follow at weekly intervals.

Gardening Gardening

Down at the south-west corner of his lot, which incidentally is a double lot, snuggles a friend’s glasshouse. Partially screened off from his dwelling by a hedge of purple lilacs it is his haven of refuge, from the bustle and troubles of a restless world. A castle within an estate, lacking but the moat and drawbridge.

On a placard nailed to an inside panel of the greenhouse door, are pasted numerous clippings and data. Some are freshly stuck there while others are soiled and faded. Of all these clippings, one is well worthy a re-printed enlargement. The expression was penned by William Coles in 1657, to find a place of prominence, nearly 350 years later, on the placard that hangs on the castle door. And all this just goes to prove how wise a green thumber can get to be.

Written Over 350 Years Ago

“And if Gentlemen which have little else to doe, would be ruled by me, I would advise them to spend their spare time in their Gardens: either in digging, setting, weeding, or the like, then which there is no better way in the world to preserve health. If a man wants an appetite to his victuals, the smell of the earth new turned up, by digging with a spade will produce it, and if he is inclined to a Consumption it will recover him. Gentlewomen, if the ground is not too wet, may doe themselves much good by kneeling upon a cushion and weeding and thus both sexes might divert themselves from Idleness, and evil Company, which oftimes prove the ruin of many ingenious people.” - William Coles, 1657.

Here are a few other clipping and data for the plant growing enthusiast!

Cow Manure