Archive

Archive for July, 2009

2-piece Decorative Planters Set - Bring Your Garden Inside with these Fine Stainless Steel Planters newly tagged "gardening"

July 31st, 2009
2-piece Decorative Planters Set - Bring Your Garden Inside with these Fine Stainless Steel Planters

2-piece Decorative Planters Set - Bring Your Garden Inside with these Fine Stainless Steel Planters
By StainlessLUX

More Info

Gardening News

Growing Media for Container Gardening

July 31st, 2009

UNL Extension Landscape Horticulture Specialist Kim Todd Talks to UNL East Campus Greenhouse Manager Stacy Adams about a few ideas for successful container gardening

Gardening Videos , , , , , , , , , ,

Lawn care - What To Do When Spring Is Coming?

July 31st, 2009

Start the spring off right with good lawn care and your lawn will thank you by growing green and beautiful during the spring and summer seasons. Spring lawn care is important in that it’s the time when you can catch, diagnose, and fix any grass issues like crabgrass. The excellent news is that spring lawn care can be completed in five easy steps. Make sure you follow these steps yearly when spring rolls out and your lawn will start looking better and better each year!

1. Clean up the Lawn Cleaning the grass of any debris is the first step in spring lawn care. This step includes raking any leftover leaves, branches, twigs, and so on. This can truly help to ensure a difficulty free first cutting.

2. Distribute Remaining Snow If any piles of snow have amassed and not softened then you will need to get the spade out and break he snow pile apart. Simply spread the snow round the lawn in areas where there’s lots of sun. This is an important step as the snow pile could cause the grass beneath to develop and grow slower than the remainder of the grass.

3. First Fertilizing Find a good manure for early spring application. It will have the right mix of fertilizer compounds for your lawn. Do not forget to fertilize light as over fertilizing in spring can hurt the roots of the grass and cause you more issues than you need.

4. Crabgrass- Remove it before it grows! Early spring is the best time for crabgrass treatment. If your grass had crabgrass expansion last spring or summer than you will need to treat it this spring. The way to treat for crabgrass is with herbicide and it has to be applied 2 weeks before crabgrass germinates in your area. If you are uncertain about when this occurs then you may need to consider asking a professional landscaper for some useful advice.

5. Over Seeding Over seeding is the method of placing a major amount of grass seeds on patchy or worn down areas or grass. This process helps to brace and quicken the grass expansion and to help it look better. If you used an herbicide for crabgrass then you must wait at least a month before over seeding.

About the Author:

Lawn Care

How To Design Successful Outdoor Lighting

July 31st, 2009

Classic lighting design is about identifying and blending four core lighting groups: ambient, accent, decorative and task lighting. And when it comes to the outdoor lighting very much the same principles to create successful interior lighting apply; but before we examine these further, there are a few key differences to take note of.

First there are significant differences in scale. Inside rooms have walls and ceilings that define their extent and they are actually quite compact when set against even the smallest garden. Outside the ceiling is literally sky high and such boundaries as there are tend to be quite low and pretty much disappear altogether at night.

This presents a number of problems and benefits where garden lighting design is concerned. Indoors, much of the light gets reflected from the ceiling and walls which simply increases the level of ambient light in the room. Outdoors however, light simply vanishes into space which creates a strong contrast with nearby areas and causes them to appear even more dark.

This absence of ambient light from reflections renders many interior lighting techniques unusable outdoors. However, it also makes a number of interesting effects possible by utilising the high contrast between light and dark; it is not uncommon to find night time gardens that have been designed to appear completely different to their day time counterpart through the simple expedient of highlighting some features and disguising others.

There is also the matter of how you plan on using your outdoor spaces. A classic garden design theory is that you should regard your garden as an additional room (or set of rooms) and design accordingly, lighting included.

You most probably use quite different lighting for specific rooms largely to suit their functional purpose; bedroom lighting for example as compared to kitchen lighting. Accordingly, if you intended to designate your deck as an entertainment area then you would also expect to fit lighting designed to support that purpose. And looking at other zones in the garden, say a water feature or walkway, it is again likely you would adapt the lighting to the intended purpose.

Which leads us back to the four core lighting groups and their use outdoors.

Whereas ambient light is used indoors as a foundation for the other lighting types, outside it is difficult to use it this way due to the lack of reflective surfaces and so ambient light tends to be deployed as a lighting form in its own right. Ambient light in a garden is often used simply to create a pleasant indistinct background glow and solar powered garden lights are ideal for this application.

Accent lighting is simply the art of picking out and/or enhancing those features you wish to emphasize at night. It can be used to accentuate color or detailing and also to lead the eye. Most garden accent lighting uses spotlights and these days predominantly LED spots since they deliver much more crisp and vibrant light and can also “get in close” since they don’t output any heat.

Decorative lighting performs a similar function in that it is intended to look attractive and catch the eye, with the difference that the light fitting itself is the focal point. Once again LED garden lights are now used quite heavily for decorative effects.

Garden task lighting is not really concerned with being able to read a book and such like but simply providing enough light for people to move around in safety. So path lighting, those LED deck lights that seem to get installed everywhere (and not just in decks) and lighting around areas where people might want to have some vague idea what they’re drinking or eating.

Successful garden lighting depends on combining all the four core lighting types, just the same as interior lighting design (and it’s also good to have independent control of the task lighting). Over reliance on just one type will almost always produce an unsatisfactory result. Ambient lighting alone will make your garden appear drab and formless; accent lighting used in isolation can seem over dramatic and rather harsh; and too much decorative lighting creates a disjointed and slightly tacky look.

A really simple way to get a rich combination of the main lighting types is to just buy an assortment of varied light fittings. So pick up some spot lights that cover a range of beam angle and luminosity plus the standard lanterns and path markers. Introduce a few coloured lights to the collection and also aim to use both solar powered and mains low voltage powered lights. As you might expect, contemporary examples of both formats are now LED based.

About the Author:

Gardening

GopherHaul 8 - Lawn Care Business Show

July 31st, 2009

GopherHaul is a show for lawn care operators and small business owners. In this episode we learn how to make a killer lawn care business flyer. We meet Santos who gets a GopherHaul lawn care business makeover. We check out a kit car one of our forum members is building. Also we learn how to download a free lawn care business book “Stop Lowballing.” Which includes page after page of landscaping business and marketing tips. Check out www.gophersoftware.com for more information and download the …

Gardening Videos , , , , , , , , , ,

Terrific Tomatoes All About How to Grow and Enjoy Them (Hardcover) newly tagged "gardening"

July 30th, 2009
Terrific Tomatoes  All About How to Grow and Enjoy Them

Terrific Tomatoes All About How to Grow and Enjoy Them (Hardcover)
By Foster Catharine O & The Editors of Organic Gardening and Farming Magazine

3 used and new from $6.00
Customer Rating: 5.0

First tagged “gardening” by Conrad D. Shull
Customer tags: rodale, gardening, home-grown tomatoes, organic, home grown tomatoes organic rodale gardening

More Info

Gardening News

Be Inspired With The Beauty Of Butterfly Iris

July 30th, 2009

The Spuria iris, long relegated to the neglected back of the perennial border, emerged as the glamorous “Butterfly Iris” in the 1950’s with development of new hybrids. The familiar white, blue, or yellow spurias, dependable and hardy though they were, were not far removed from the wild Species. Almost unnoticed, a few breeders patiently worked for the development of new varieties, added new colors, form, and true branching.

For those who are not familiar with the butterfly (spuria) iris, here is a brief description of the species: The spuria iris is one of the apogon (beardless) irises native to the northern and eastern hemispheres. Because its seeds are enclosed in an air filled parchment like membrane which permits them to float, they have migrated to river mouths and along shore lines. In color, the wild species are blue, white, or yellow, all with a yellow signal patch.

Some of the blue species have slightly purplish tones and a subspecies whose right to membership in this group is often questioned is the wine-colored dwarf “graminea.” The flower resembles that of the Dutch iris but the average height is three feet and the stalks carry three or four pairs of buds, often opening a flower of each pair at once.

Spuria irises bloom after (in the North) or with (in the South) the bearded iris. The large size of the flowers (up to seven inches in diameter), height of the sturdy stalks, number, heavy substance, and keeping ability of the flowers make them unsurpassed for florists or flower arrangers use.

They like, but do not demand, full sun, good drainage, and plenty of food and water with a good garden soil to improve there growth. After they bloom they prefer to bake through the summer months, refusing to produce good bloom or increase next season without this summer dormancy. Mature rhizomes are temperamental about being moved and should be transplanted during their summer dormancy or when new growth begins in the fall. If moved at the wrong time and not place in a better garden soil they will sulk for a year or two. The foliage dies back after being lifted unless the roots are undisturbed by moving a ball of soil with them.

Like all members of the iris family, butterfly irises are subject to virus and bacterial (rot) infections. Good cultural practice and attention to their requirements make control of these factors easier than other iris species.

About the Author:

Gardening

How to Choose and Use Mosquito Control Repellents Safely

July 30th, 2009

A number of important diseases, such as West Nile virus, are transmitted by mosquitoes. Mosquito repellents are an important part of our defense against such diseases. How do mosquitoes find us in the first place? They can sense the carbon dioxide, heat and even the humidity we give off. The way mosquito repellents work is to hide the cues that attract mosquitoes.

It’s important to remember that mosquito repellents do not protect everyone equally. Many factors are involved including the type of mosquito and the age, sex, and level of activity of the person involved. Remember too that mosquito repellent only works on the surface to which it’s applied directly.

The Center for Disease Control (CDC) recommends two products, DEET and picaridin. According to the CDC, each of these products works well and offers long lasting protection. DEET was developed in the 1940’s for the U.S. Army and first offered to the public in 1957.

The length of time you’re outside can help you determine what concentration your mosquito repellent needs to be. If you’re often outside 3-4 hours, you’ll need a product with 20% or more of DEET for good protection. If you’re typically outside for less than 3 hours, consider a product with less than 20% DEET or 7% picaridin. Products with more than 50% DEET do not offer any extra protection.

How safe are these products? Here’s what the various agencies say. If used according to directions DEET does not pose any health problems, and is not considered a human carcinogen according to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). The CDC does not recommend sunscreens with combining products that contain DEET. DEET concentrations below 30% are safe for children two months of age and older according to the American Academy of Pediatrics.

The CDC recommends two other active ingredients that typically provide reasonably long protection, although not as long as the higher concentrations of DEET. They are oil of lemon eucalyptus and IR3535. Oil of lemon eucalyptus is a synthetic version of the real product. EPA’s testing indicates that oil of lemon eucalyptus provides protection similar to low concentrations of DEET. Read the label however, as that product should not be used on children under 3 years of age.

In spite of widespread advertising, there is no scientific evidence that the ultrasonic mosquito repellent devices work. Current beliefs that eating garlic, vitamins, onions, or any other food can repel mosquitoes are not true. The portable mosquito traps that emit carbon dioxide are too new to have been thoroughly tested yet.

To use mosquito repellents safely, follow these guidelines: Always read the instruction and follow the directions. Apply these products only to exposed skin. Do not apply repellents to cuts, wounds or rashes. Do not apply near eyes or mouth. Apply only lightly around the ears. Never allow children to apply these products. Always wash or bathe to remove these products when you return indoors.

About the Author:

Gardening

Moonrays 96127 Solar Powered Hanging Path Light, Black Finish (Tools & Hardware) newly tagged "gardening"

July 29th, 2009
Moonrays 96127 Solar Powered Hanging Path Light, Black Finish

Moonrays 96127 Solar Powered Hanging Path Light, Black Finish (Tools & Hardware)
By Moonrays

Buy new: $14.99
Customer Rating: 2.0

First tagged “gardening” by S. Summers
Customer tags: solar-powered landscape lighting, lamp, solar, gardening, yard lights, hanging light, solar lights

More Info

Gardening News

Gardening - Growing Plants From Seed

July 29th, 2009

Many people are afraid of growing plants from seed but it’s really very simple and anyone can do it. All you really need is patience and diligence.

There’s nothing more rewarding than scattering a few seeds in a box and seeing them grow into real flowers or vegetables. In addition, it’s much less expensive to buy a few packets of seeds and some compost than to buy the equivalent number of plants from a garden centre. This is particularly true if you have a large garden and need plenty of plants to fill the spaces but if your garden is small, why not share a few different packets of seeds with a friend or two. If, say, three of you each grow one variety then you can all have three different types of flowers in your garden or window boxes.

So, to get down to essentials: it has to be the right time of year. Most annual flowers and summer vegetables such as tomatoes, salads, beans, cucumbers, etc. need to be planted in late winter or early spring but perennial plants and vegetables like spring onions should be planted in autumn so you must check the seed packet. You also need good quality seed compost. Don’t skimp on this; you really do get what you pay for and the cheaper varieties don’t contain the nutrients that growing seedlings need. You will also need some sort of container, usually a tray about 5cm deep by 22cm wide by 35cm long. Specialist seed trays from a garden centre are quite cheap and obviously designed for the purpose. Alternatively, you can buy strips of tiny pots, which are useful when you come to prick out your seedlings (more of that later) or for larger seeds, pellets which expand in water and which hold individual seeds.

Fill your seed tray with compost and lightly firm it down with your hand. Water with a fine rose or spray bottle and be sure not to soak the compost or the seeds will rot; it should be just damp to the touch.

The next step depends on the seed that you are planting. If they are tiny such as petunia seeds, check the instructions on the packet but normally you would need to sprinkle them over the whole surface of your prepared tray and cover with a very fine layer of compost. If the seeds are larger, for example nasturtium, then make individual holes in the compost using the end of a pencil or similar and insert your seeds and close the holes gently with your finger. For these larger seeds, planting in rows makes life easier later on. Again, read the packet, but some seeds need a damp atmosphere to germinate so cover your seed tray with transparent plastic or glass. Some need dark so cover with brown paper.

Once your seeds are planted, keep in a fairly warm place such as a south facing windowsill but preferably not in full sun. The seeds will probably not need watering if they are covered in plastic or sealed in a plastic bag - you will be able to tell by the condensation forming on the plastic (or not), but if the compost starts to look dry, water gently or spray from a bottle. Whatever you do, don’t overwater.

Keep an eye on your seeds and as soon as they are germinating, remove the covering and continue to water as before. When the plants are about 3cm tall and have developed two or four leaves, prick (thin) them out so that the remaining seedlings are about 2cm apart. You can replant the seedlings which you have removed in other seed trays at the same distance apart. Be careful when handling these, grasping them very gently by the stem, not the leaves. Alternatively, you can transplant the seedlings to individual pots about 5cm in diameter.

When the weather warms up, you can put the seedlings outside during the day and bring them in when darkness falls. This is called hardening off as it acclimatises the seedlings to outdoor life. As the plants get bigger, they can be watered with a normal watering can or fine hose.

When all fear of frost has past, you can leave your young plants out at night as well as during they day and after about a week, they will be ready to transplant to their permanent outdoor positions.

Before planting out, give the plants a good watering and include the ball of compost in their newly dug hole as this will continue to give them nourishment and will prevent too much disturbance of the roots.

Once in the ground, continue watering in accordance with your local weather conditions and you will be amazed how the plants flourish. Come summer, you can sit back and admire your flowers or veg with the additional satisfaction of knowing that you grew them yourself.Liz Canham Liz is a keen gardener who has exchanged the relative ease of gardening in Southern England for the trials of gardening on the Costa Blanca in Spain, where her garden is at a 45% angle on the side of a mountain. She is webmistress of Gardening for All.

Gardening Articles

Powered by WP VideoTube