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While we all know that garlic has many health benefits such as being a natural antibiotic, you may not know that they can also be healthy for your garden as well. As a companion plant, when they are planted near roses and raspberries, garlic will improve the growth and health of your plants. It has the added benefit of deterring Japanese beetles and aphids. Garlic is easy to grow and each planted clove will produce a full head of Garlic with between 8 to 20 cloves per head. To get started in with planting your garlic, first purchase your garlic of choice. Since the garlic from grocery stores has antisprouting chemicals added to it, be sure and buy your garlic from a reputable source rather than a grocery store. One variety that you may enjoy that is popular here in the Mid-South is the mild flavored ‘Elephant’ garlic which has large clusters.

Planting Garlic

One half pound of garlic seed is a good start and will produce about 15 plants. Garlic is divided into hardnecks (Allium sativum var. ohioscorodon) and softnecks (Allium sativum var. sativum). First, check online catalogs or your local co-op for the variety that will suit your needs best.

Next, decide where you will plant your garlic. A raised bed is suggested if you do not have good soil or if you live in a wet climate. Good soil means loamy soil with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Composted manure for essential nutrients incorporated into soil a few weeks before planting is helpful. If you are planting your garlic directly into your soil, plant in wide-rows 10 to 12 inches wide. Timing is important when planting garlic. Bigger bulbs will be produced if you plant in the fall and let it grow and mature until the following summer. If you find that it’s springtime already and you haven’t planted yours yet, go ahead and plant if you like, just realize you will get smaller bulbs. Since garlic bulbs like cool weather, the earlier you can plant it the better it will grow and the bigger the bulbs will be.

Garlic is not susceptible to disease, but as with any plant, having good air circulation is the key to a healthy plant. If your garlic develops thrips, apply insecticidal soap. In cold climates, add more mulch a month after planting to prevent extreme temperature fluctuations. When growth appears in late winter, pull back the mulch and begin monthly applications of an organic fertilizer such as blood meal or fish emulsion. Stop fertilizing in mid to late spring (depending on what type of garlic you have). Mulch again as summer approaches.

Harvesting Garlic

It takes about 100 days for bulbs planted in the spring to mature. Harvest between late may in warm climates and mid-August in cooler areas. Stop watering two weeks before harvest. One tip that garlic is ready to harvest is when the leaves on the lower half of the plant turn brown. To harvest, dig the bulbs up rather than pulling them up, Being careful not to damage the outer skins.

Let them cure in a dry, shady, well ventilated location for three days. Don’t wash them yet. If you want to braid your garlic for a decorative touch, now is the time to braid the foliage of softnecks. Cure bulbs for 2 to 3 more weeks until foliage is completely dry. Once foliage is dry, clean the bulbs by wiping or peeling away the outer husk. Trim tops to 1 inch and roots to 1/2 inch.

Storing Garlic Bulbs

To store your garlic bulbs, place them in mesh bags or braided strings in a dark, cool place. Garlic will keep up to three months if stored at between 32 degrees Fahrenheit and room temperature. Humidity level of 65 to 70 percent is best.

Don not refrigerate.

Troubleshooting

Common causes of small or no bulbing include high temperatures, excessive watering, wrong cultivar for your climate, and weed competition. Your local extension service can advise you as to what varieties grow well in your area.

Both you and your garden can benefit from growing garlic. Checking online catalog sources, your local extension service, or with your local garden center will give you many varieties that are fun to try and that will grow well in your area.For more expert gardening advice from Julia Stewart, a master gardener, and her husband who has been a professional landscape contractor for nearly 30 years, visit Flowers,Plants,Gardening Advice.com

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Starting a home vegetable garden can be a great way to save money. Home grown vegetables cost a fraction of what you would pay in a grocery store. By choosing vegetables that are easy to grow, you’ll have fresh vegetable flavor and save money.
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The aim here is to produce a vine shaped like an open bush. The rods are allowed to grow naturally for the first year after planting. The rods are then cut back to within two buds of their base in January.

They could also be grown on the ‘Grow as you like’ system, being allowed to scramble over a trellis or cover a fence or wall. Under this system very little pruning is necessary, though it does pay to cut back the fruiting laterals in the summer at two leaves above a bunch.

The leaves of the vines grown against walls are often attacked by Red Spiders, and the answer here is to syringe the under surface of the foliage in the evening, twice a week, from the beginning of June onwards. In cases of bad attack some liquid derris should be added to the water.

Do not, however, allow 12 rods to be produced or you may not be able to ripen the fruit. Stick to 6 or 7 rods tied to strong bamboos or stakes to form a goblet and gradually these shoots will bear more bunches of grapes up to, say, 8 per rod. Do not be tempted to reduce the pruning by cutting say to 5 buds, and do not be tempted either to try and make the vine crop more heavily.

Some people give each vine one stake, 4 feet out of the ground, and then, instead of tying the rods out to ‘form a goblet, they merely tie the tips of the rods to the top of the stakes to form an inverted cone. By the way, do not allow the young cane to go on growing after the requisite number of bunches of grapes have been produced. You should always pinch out the growing point at 3 leaves beyond the top hunch.

This method is not suitable for varieties producing very thin canes or for those which bear the best fruit at the end of very long canes.

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The Endless Summer hydrangea, H. macrophlla, has endless possibilities for your garden. That’s why it has become one of the most famous perennial shrubs to come along in a very long time.

This collection, which now includes a white mophead called ‘Blushing Bride’, started with a single plant - Endless Summer The Original. This plant has been proven over the past few years to be an exceptional addition to any garden. They can be used as specimen plants in a perennial bed, or they can be great addition to a shady spot under a tree. They can be pink or blue depending on what type of soil you have them planted in. In order to get them to bloom blue the soil must be aluminum-based with a pH 5.0. For a pink color, the soil must be non-aluminum, neutral, or alkaline.

This plant has been intensely researched at the University of Georgia. Their greenhouse, nursery, and field data all showed that it did indeed flower on new growth, has foliage flat medium green; moderate mildew susceptibility; estimating 3 to 5 feet height and as wide; have suffered cold damage in the trials but the new shoots develop flower buds and fully expressed inflorescences (blooms).

It will bloom May and June with a second full flush in October and November. Studies have shown that when flowers are removed, it takes 10 - 12 weeks before new shoots develop full sized inflorescences. For continuous color, the gardener might remove one half the inflorescences (blooms), allowing the remainder to dry on the plant while the new shoots are producing flower buds for the later in the fall. The reason Endless Summer can bloom for so long is that the colorful heads aren’t really flowers at all. Rather, they are actually sepals that are sterile and grouped in clusters of 3 to 5. The fertile florets are in the center of the cluster and are very small.

If you have these gorgeous plants in your yard, you will probably be tempted to bring some of the blooms inside for you and your family’s enjoyment. Hydrangeas make wonderful bouquets and the Endless Summer hydrangea is no exception. Many people make blue hydrangea wedding bouquets for their special day. The trick is to water the plants thoroughly the day before cutting them and plunge them immediately into a clean bucket of tepid water with a little bleach in it to kill bacteria. Remove lower leaves that will be under water. If wilting occurs, place stems in boiling water for a few seconds. If you prefer, the mopheads can even be dried quite easily if you wait until later in their blooming season, when they are practically drying on the bush.

Endless Summer hydrangeas bloom on both old and new growth. That’s a good thing because so often if we get a late season frost, many varieties of hydrangeas that only grow on new growth, will not bloom that year. That’s why we love the Endless Summer hydrangea so much.

With these beauties, you will get all summer pink or blue flowers depending on the variety you chose. Be sure and check with your local garden center or online catalogs to purchase yours today for a perennial that blooms all summer long.For expert gardening advice from Julia Stewart, a master gardener, and her husband Alfred,who has been a professional landscape contractor for nearly 30 years, visit Flowers,Plants,Gardening Advice.com

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There are many varieties of strawberries. Below are a few choice varieties of compost growing of strawberries that gardener usually plant.

Remontant strawberries need heavy organic manuring, plus plenty of water during the summer. They mature twice as quickly as ordinary kinds and they need moisture during the rapid build-up of crowns in summer. The planting of new rows is usually done in October and when the first blossoms appear in May these are removed. It helps if diluted Liquinure is given.

Baron Solemacher is perhaps the best variety. Easy to grow and a heavy cropper.

Hampshire Maid if deblossomed in May and June will produce fruits from July until November. The plant is compact, the trusses appear all round and the fruit is found at the edge of the foliage. The fruit is rounded-conical, firm and dark red. It is suitable for jam. It certainly is a very heavy cropper.

Merton Princess is a variety raised by the John Tunes Research Institution which is resistant to Verticillium Wilt but unfortunately liable to Botrytis. Is very useful for a country district where it crops heavily and produces large, crimson fruits. It is very susceptible to Red Core. The blossoms are well protected from frost by the leaves. Season mid-early. Red Gauntlet is a variety raised by the Scottish Horticultural Research Institute. A vigorous compact grower, the large trusses of which stand clear of the foliage. The fruits also are very large and scarlet in colour. Flavour good. Season mid.

Royal Sovereign may be compared to the Cox’s Orange of apples. Very delicious when well grown. Good for the heavier type of soil. The fruits are scarlet, very large and of excellent quality. Rather too leafy for growing under ganwicks or cloches. A lovely variety for the small garden. Season mid. Cambridge Rival is a grand variety for the wetter parts of Great Britain and in rainy seasons. Produces short trusses, plus foliage that is on long stems clear of the fruit. Is a good variety for sandy soils which may be low in potash, and the flavour of the berries is improved under ganwicks or frames. Is very resistant to the Red Core Root Rot. Fruits are large, conical, firm and crimson. They do not however travel well. Season early.

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Vegetable gardens are rarely planted all at once. To get the most from the limited space of a home vegetable garden, there are several methods of extending your vegetable harvest throughout the vegetable growing season. Extending the vegetable harvest is easy enough to do, but it takes a little pre-planning as your getting your vegetable garden started.
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We have had our first kiss of warm weather already this year, and many of you are starting to think about lawn care for 2009. Of course, proper lawn maintenance includes watering, fertilizing, insect treatments and weed control. But what about the most important element; the mowing?

With that in mind, here are some basic, but very important lawn care tips in regards to lawn cutting.

Mow How Tall?

Leading off my general lawn mowing tips is the actual cutting and mowing height. This one is by far the most important. If you cut the grass too short, you remove too much of the grass blade’s surface, thus disturbing the process of photosynthesis. If the plant cannot create its own food properly, it will decline or die.

The best advice is to mow your lawn as tall as possible all year long. If you are unsure about the exact setting on your lawn mower, then set it to the highest or second highest setting and leave it there all the time. This ensures safety for your grass when cutting.

Having A Sharp Mower Blade

Since we have the cutting height out of the way, let’s talk about the lawn mower blade itself. A dull mower blade will rip the blades of grass as it cuts, thus causing the tips of the turf to appear brown. A sharp blade, however, provides a nice clean cut.

It is best to have your lawn mower blade sharpened at the beginning of the cutting season just to ensure it is in good shape. If you are unable to do this yourself, then have your local lawn mower shop do it for you for a small fee. In fact, you can have two blades so that you are never without your mower for any period of time.

Mowing Frequency

Lastly we need to be sure to mow the grass every single week without fail. If you skip or miss a cutting, the grass grows too tall. Tall grass being cut shorter will remove too much leaf area and cause the same problems mentioned in the first tip above. The best advice here is to just not miss any cuttings and you will be fine. If you do miss one, then you must have the blade raised to the top level and step it down gradually over the next few cuttings.

It’s nearly spring and now is the time to think about getting your mower in shape and ready for the first cutting of the year. Remember, cutting is fun, especially cutting a nice green lawn!

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Storage shed have many uses. It can be used to store your garden tools, camping equipment, bikes, or just basically stuff we don’t use often. Or you can use them as a shelter for potting plants, or a work space. Storage sheds will come in many styles and sizes for different needs.

A garden shed is a simple structure. They can be set up permanent on a concrete foundation, or have it portable on a skid foundation. You will need to check your local codes to see what will be allowed.

Adding details such as windows, trim, doors, and shingles can turn an ordinary shed into a beautiful structure. Even an ordinary storage shed kit can look stunning with some custom features.

What you want your structure to look and do will be things to consider when purchasing. Will it be used as a storage, or a work place? Maybe you will want a combination of storage and work place. Looking for the right design and size might suit you best.

The first thing to consider will be size. Find out what you can accommodate on your property. Make a list of what you will be putting inside, such as patio furniture, outdoor grill, bikes, etc. If it will be used as a work place, make sure to leave room to move around comfortably. You will also need to add lighting. If you will use it for a work space you will want to choose your location carefully. Having windows on the south facing can bring in some good light, but they may also bring in to much heat.

Some of the basics shapes to choose from will be, gable, gambrel, lean-to, saltbox, and hip. A gable shed has two even roofs that join together to form a triangle. Gambrel shed has a roof with two sloped pitches on each side. A lean-to shed has a single sloping roof. A hip shed has a roof that slopes down in four directions from the top.

Storage shed kits come in a variety of materials. Vinyl sheds will require very little maintenance. Some of the advantages having vinyl is that it will not rot like wood, or rust like metal. Wood sheds are very sturdy and can handle heavy loads such as snow. You can paint and shingle wood sheds to match your home. Metal sheds are very affordable, compared to vinyl or wood sheds. When buying a metal shed, make sure it carries a warranty against rust. With proper maintenance these sheds will last for many years.

Most storage shed kits will come with a foundation. In some cases the foundation will be sold separately. You will either need to purchase or build your own. The most common types will be a concrete or a skid foundation. A concrete foundation will be permanent, unlike a skid. With a skid the shed will be portable, in case it needs to be moved.

By knowing what options are available, you will be able to purchase the outdoor garden storage shed that will best meet your needs.Buying storage sheds can be expensive. By doing some research you will not only save money, you can get exactly what you need. For more information on storage sheds, and garden storage sheds visit my website. www.MybackyardPlans.com/storage-sheds.php

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There are many reasons fruit trees can take years to begin bearing fruit. Home fruit growers need to make sure their fruit trees are given the right care and growing conditions. gardening fruit apple trees home backyard orchard not setting fruiting gardens
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As might be expected, most plants suited to this method of propagation have comparatively soft and fleshy leaves. There are two types of leaf cuttings : those that make use of leaf and stem and those requiring the leaf alone. An example of the first is the dainty African violet and of the second, the gorgeous Begonia Rex.

Merely knock the plant from its pot, tease away some of the soil from the roots and with a sharp knife cut away the new shoots together with the roots closest to them. Pot these up in fresh soil. Well grown Saint Paulias or African Violets after a time grow to a stage where they should be divided if they are to continue growing and blooming. In this case again knock the plant from its pot and gently ease away much of the soil, damaging the roots as little as possible. It will be seen that instead of a single plant there are in fact a considerable number and many of these can be gently separated from the mass and potted up individually.

A considerably more artificial derivation of the layering process is known as air layering. It is particularly useful for the following reason. Many plants such as the rubber plant gradually lose their lower leaves so we are left with a long, naked stem with a tuft of foliage at the top. This is both hideous and a demonstration of our inability to grow the plant properly. If we can take the tuft at the top and make a new plant from it, then we can begin again.

Plants permitting a leaf cutting rather than a leaf and stem also frequently have a further advantage, allowing the leaf to be cut into many pieces, each producing a separate plant. Examples here are Begonia Rex and Sanscvieria.

The begonia leaf can be cut into several sections and so long as each cut has been made to sever one of the prominent veins, roots will grow from this part. The spear like Sanscvieria can be cut into two inch sections. Each of the sections, from begonia or sansevieria, should be planted with the end originally nearest the stem or base into the soil.

Still another method with the begonia is to pin a whole leaf securely to the soil or sand surface using hairpins or similar bent pieces of wire. Make sure that the whole of the underside of the leaf is in intimate contact with the moist surface. Then merely make a cut right through the leaf at a number of the main veins. Use a very sharp knife or better still a razor blade. If this cut part is in contact with the moist surface below, new roots will form here and eventually new plants.

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